I gotta call BS on New York Times’ restaurant critic Sam Sifton’s farewell: “All criticism is argument. Mine has been from the start that restaurants are culture, and that there is no better perch from which to examine our shared values and beliefs, behavior and attitudes, than a seat in a restaurant dining room, observing life’s pageant in the presence of food and drink.”
Restaurants are but a small slice of culture. It takes money to eat out at restaurants, especially the places that get reviewed in the NYT, and culture is certainly not limited to people who choose or can afford to participate. What a skewed world he lives in to think that one can find our shared values, believes, behavior and attitude in the choreographed theater of fine dining where very little is real or what it seems.
Although I never want to be one, I have a great deal of respect for restaurant critics, but this is exactly the kind of derangement that Frank Bruni, another former NYT restaurant critic, wrote about just earlier this week in the New York Times’ op-ed page.
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